Sunday, October 9, 2011

Day 16, Reflections On A Whirlwind

I've been here for just 16 days, and yet it feels like much longer - probably because so much has happened to me in such a short period of time. This country is beautiful; full of history and culture and art. Everywhere I go there is something new to see and do. I have started classes and I am getting along with my host family swimmingly. I won't do a complete rehash of all that has happened to me, but I would like to give you a smattering of what has happened thus far.

 

Above: the Alhambra, Granada's primary attraction. This magnificent structure is a fortified palace built in the mid 14th century. Until the Christian Reconquest, Granada was the last stronghold of Moorish power, which had ruled much of the Iberian Peninsula including southern Spain (Al-Andalus) since 711 AD. Below: another part of the complex, Palacio de Generalife, one of the complexes connected to Alhambra. It's a steep but lushly forested climb to the Alhambra, and somewhat difficult to acquire tickets, but well worth it. 





 

The two photos above: the Hall of the Abencerrajes, demonstrating the beautiful mocárabe vaulting that characterizes Islamic architecture, and fantastically carved columns. Our guide, who spoke English with the accent of a British dandy and was rather difficult to understand through the static of a headset, tried to tell us something about how much of the artistry lies in the Arabic writing inscribed on the walls. While I admit that my primary motive for selecting Granada as my host city was because it is the least expensive of all the programs I looked at, the infusion of Islamic history and culture here was also a big draw.




The day we drove to Granada from Madrid, we visited the Royal Seat of San Lorenze de El Escorial, which is less than 30 miles outside of Madrid. Today a school, museum and monastery, this place was  the historical royal palace. In order from top; Courtyard of the Kings, inside the Basilica (note the dome), and directly above, the entrance to the Pantheon of Kings. The Pantheon of Kings houses 26 marble sepulchers, containing the remains of kings and queens; in total El Escorial is the final resting place of some 200 royal bodies. It was pretty awesome.


Another picture taken between Granada and Madrid. I love the lone white farm house against the dark, rugged hillsides. Driving down the highway, it is not uncommon to drive past small castles, churches hundreds of years old, and antiquated windmills (amongst fields of sleek, modern wind turbines).





Photographs taken around Granada. There are many beautiful churches right around Granada. Most of them cost just a couple Euro to peek inside; I need to plan a weekend to visit inside each one.


Between Granada and the coast, we drove through areas that were once popular filming locations for spaghetti Westerns (cue Ennio Morricone).







The above dreamscape is from my trip to San José, along Cabo de Gata Natural Park. After being introduced to a beautiful virgin beach, Playa Genoveses, the next morning a friend of mine and I took off on our own, hiked to some breathtaking overlooks, and found our own private cove pictured above (reminds me of something out of the Count of Monte Cristo, even though I know that is hundreds of miles of coastline away). The Mediterranean was warm and beautiful; clear water, fine gold-flecked sand, and where there wasn't sand, the most romantic rock formations climb straight out of the water. 


In the Albaicín, a famous neighborhood in Granada which overlooks the Alhambra. I learned a lot about El Greco when I went to see one of his most famous works, El Entierro del Conde de Orgaz in Toledo. One thing El Greco often does is paint one or two of the subjects of the painting looking at the audience, to gaze directly at the onlooker so to speak. Anyway, this man in the center does a wonderful job of breaking the third wall, not to mention these were the best street performers I'd heard since coming to Spain. 

 

A surprise inside a handsome little antique shop in the Albaicín.


               The Alhambra, as seen from the Albaicín.

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